In this post I will talk through how I created the hair and makeup for Kirsty, our model when I profiled Moira Hughes for The Bridal Series Sydney.
When styling short hair it’s hard to go past the pixie crops of the 1960s and 1990s for inspiration.
Left- Actor, model and socialite Edie Sedgwick circa 1965 with the one and only Andy Warhol and Right- Actor and activist Jean Seberg circa 1960.
90s icons- Linda Evangelista, Winona Ryder and Halle Berry.
I wanted to style Kirsty’s hair with texture, separation and definition. I wanted it to look effortless yet polished and very feminine.
Flower comb custom made for this shoot by the lovely Nicholas from Pollon Flowers in Paddington.
This was a relatively quick style to create and can easily be attempted at home. I started by spraying Kirsty’s hair with the Label M Blow Out Spray and alternating between blasting my hairdryer from all different directions and gradually layering more of the spray for UV and heat protection as well as volume and separation.
Once I was happy with the volume I’d built I worked the Mesh Styling cream in between the palms of my hands and worked it through the hair side to side to get an even distribution. Using my fingertips, I then pieced out certain sections for definition and built some extra texture at the crown. I love the slight shimmer this gave to Kirsty’s hair and there was no need for hairspray.
Hair styling products from LabelM.
Kirsty’s skin had a wonderful texture but was dehydrated (not dry) and so I applied the Indeed Labs Hydraluron Mask for five minutes before commencing with the rest of the prep. The masks come soaked in a hyaluronic acid solution (one of the best hydrating ingredients) and deliver in a slow release. Once I removed the mask, I massaged in the remaining serum and finished with a dab of the Eysilix eye cream and the lightweight Hydraluron Moisture Jelly moisturiser.
Moira Hughes Couture is all about femininity and exquisite design yet there is diversity amongst her designs.
Moira Hughes Couture – the Indianna gown (left), the Belle gown (centre) and the Charlotte gown (right).
When creating the makeup for Kirsty, I was torn between doing something really soft and subtle or taking the makeup into a more high fashion direction because Moira’s gowns lend themselves equally to both styles. Having trouble making up my mind, I did both!
The first look I designed was all about the eyes. Rich taupe and chocolate shades, kohl liner smudged around the lashline and some lengthening lashes. I kept the base matte and ethereal (like the glow was coming from within) and I worked with Kirsty’s incredible bone structure to emphasise the cheekbones. For the first look I used a soft matte pink on the lips.
Then I amped it up for the second look by adding a bold red shiny lip and darkening the brows a fraction for balance. The complexion was left the same.
My key makeup products from Make Up Forever:
Base: My tried and tested favourite, the Ultra HD Foundation was my base of choice and I only needed slight amounts of the Ultra HD Concealer to correct discolouration under the eyes. I set everything with the Super Matte Loose Powder in “Ivory” to add that ethereal glow.
Blush & Highlighter: Using a light motion with my angled brush, I swept the Sculpting Powder Blush in “Satin Light Pink” blush upwards along the cheekbones and dusted the Star Powder in “Pearl Gold” above the cheekbones to highlight.
Lips: The soft matte pink I used for the first look was the Rouge Artist Intense in “Satin Fresh Pink” buffed in lightly with a lip brush, no liner. For the second look it was a combination of the Aqua Rouge Liquid Lip Colour in “Red” and “Pomegranate Pink” and topped with a dab of balm for the sheen.
Brows: I worked with the Eyebrow Pencil to define Kirsty’s brow and when needed for the second look, I darkened them using some matte powder eyeshadows.
Eyes: The Eye Prime eyeshadow base went down first, followed by eyeshadow shades from the Artist Shadows 1 Palette . To achieve that definition near the upper and lower lash lines, I smudged the Kohl Pencil in “1k Black” and finished with lashings of the Smoky Lash Mascara.
Lashes: To achieve fluttery lashes that would compliment Kirsty’s eye shape, I chose the Ardell Glamour 103 lashes. They certainly added an element of drama to the eye design (which is great for photography) but brides after a more subtle look can opt for individual lashes instead.
This look is a great example of keeping all design elements in balance. The texture of the hair works with the softness of the skin and the eyes meet in the middle- defined but earthy. Using the two different lip shades on Kirsty is a great demonstration of the power of a bolder lipstick. This could be something to discuss with your makeup artist if you are thinking about changing things up between the ceremony and reception (party time!).
I hope this post has left you inspired to try something new! You might like to see which other products and techniques I used for the other the models in The Bridal Series Sydney:
Rhonda Hemmingway: THE HAIR AND MAKEUP by Sonia Allen
Karen Willis Holmes: THE HAIR AND MAKEUP by Sonia Allen
Be sure to keep an eye out for the rest of the designers profiled in The Bridal Series Sydney on Instagram, Facebook and of course, the blog. Three down, three to go! And as always, feel free to leave any comments or questions about the hair and makeup below.
© 2016 Sonia Allen Make Up. Do not copy, reprint or republish content and/or photos without author’s written permission.